Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Avec: Chicago's Meatpacking Delight


If you could grade restaurants on flavors per square foot, then Avec gets my vote. - hands down! This 1,500 square foot destination is another collaboration between Blackbird restauranteur Donnie Madia, Chef Paul Kahan and designer Thomas Schlesser. So far, this gourmet triumvirate has carefully managed their establishments growth to sheer
perfection. My experience at Blackbird was exceptional and Publican is a pork lovers haven.

Schlesser's inspiration is reflected in the cedar walls and ceiling that molds this rectangular wooden box into a tightly wrapped Danish modern masterpiece. Schlesser adds a subtle contrast by using red oak for the sitting and hickory for the floor. A 48-ft stainless-steel bar hugs the mini open kitchen which dishes out one tantalizing plate after another.

Avec, is first and foremost, a wine bar. But chef Koren Grievson's food is unmistakably delicious beyond explanation. She manages to transport each diner to the farmhouses of southern France and tiny fishing villages of Portugal and Spain's Costa Del Sol. Her upbringing in South Africa, Brazil, Angola and England may have influenced her triumph in coalescing the best of the mediterranean with hints of South America.

On this visit, my oldest daughter, Margaux, and I were on a college tour of Northwestern University in the Chicago northern suburb of Evanston. These daddy-daughter trips are becoming more precious as her independence from her parents grasp nears reality. Margaux, through her travels, has developed quite a discriminating palate for a sixteen year-old. And I couldn't have found a more perfect setting for our date than the vibrant coziness of Avec in the meatpacking district of the windy city.

My eyes didn't take long to gravitate to the snails on the menu. A weakness I have for these savory little creatures. While I favor the traditional butter and garlic infused delicacy from French bistros, Avec's chanterelle and fennel laced version is definitely worth the deviation. Margaux decided that the wagyu is a must for us to also share given her memories of our Australian wagyu barbecue at my sister's home in Hong Kong. While our $50 per pound wagyu in Hong Kong deserves memorable accolades, Avec's brussels sprouts salsa verde adds a refreshing tingle to this carnivore's bliss.

However, the star of the evening was the chorizo-stuffed medjool dates. WOW! WOW! WOW! Our server convinced us that this dish was worthy of its most popular billing and she was absolutely correct. My first bite into the bacon-wrapped, steaming hot, chorizo-stuffed date produced a wonderful sensation of spice and aroma. The chorizo reminded me so much of eating the best Filipino longaniza, though this version is a bit more sophisticated with its layers of flavors. The piquillo sauce adds a whole different layer of spice and tanginess to the dish - a definite exclamation point to perhaps one of the best dishes I have encountered in my culinary journeys.

AVEC
615 W. Randolph
Chicago, Il. 60661
616.377.2002 (no reservations taken)
Chorizo-Stuffed Medjool Dates with Smoked Bacon and Piquillo Pepper-Tomato Sauce ($9)
Burgundy Snail Agridolce with Fennel, Cabbage, Chanterelles and Bacon Breadcrumbs ($10)
Marinated Wagyu Coulotte with Roasted Shallots and Brussels Sprouts Salsa Verde ($13)

The lively bar seating

Five communal tables line up one side of the cedar-wrapped restaurant

Monday, November 8, 2010

Restaurant Week Grand Rapids: A $20.10 Success

First Course - Fall Beet Salad: pickled & roasted beets . endive . smoked walnut .
concord grape vinaigrette

Grand Rapids is buzzing again but this time everything is "thumbs up" for the 50 restaurants who are participating in the inaugural Restaurant Week GR hosted by Experience Grand Rapids. For a meager $20.10, diners could enjoy a three-course meal at the city's amazing restaurants. Can you imagine spending only $20.10 at the AAA Five-Diamond 1913 Room? How about a Bistec con Pimienta at San Chez plus two additional courses? This is the best opportunity for
people to dine in style without breaking the bank. In fact, for that price, why not splurge on some wine - perhaps that killer cab you've been wanting to taste? But don't wait too long because this foodie celebration is done on Saturday!

I have been in Miami during the first few days of Restaurant Week GR. Tonight was my first opportunity and I couldn't have found a better reason than to take my eleven year old daughter, Francesca, for a daddy-daughter date after her teachers raved about how well she is doing in school. With the kids growing up so quickly, these one-on-one opportunities become more precious. 

Of course, we had to try six.one.six out. Besides, the staff has been telling me that we've been selling a lot of the Rabbit Fricasse entree so I had to taste it for myself. The West Michigan palette is no longer "Bland" Rapids. There are a lot of foodies in this area and our rabbit sales is a pretty good indication that the residents deserve a lot more credit for their discriminating taste.  And you know what, the rabbit was stunning. Imagine a rabbit alfredo but with a lot more layers of flavor. This was a killer dish and it needs to stay on the menu after Wednesday. And you know what, Francesca tried several bites and she loved it just as much as I did.

The Fall Beet Salad taste epitomizes the fall harvest season with its earthy texture and depth in autumn flavors. The Apple Fritters or Zepoles as we have it on the regular menu is a bombshell of American goodness. Francesca ordered the Apple & Cheddar Salad to start which was a light and delightful. We split the Buttermilk Fried Frog Legs which was fried lightly and served with a remoulade. A little cayenne or even tabasco in the remoulade would have made this dish perfect. She then ordered her favorite flatbread, the Cheesy Pesto, a house favorite.

With five days to go, it almost makes me sick to my stomach that I can't try out all my favorite restaurants by this weekend. My only hope is that those who never make it to these restaurants on a regular basis, swing by more often as a result of Restaurant Week GR.
Second Course - Rabbit Fricasse: root vegetables  smoked bacon . pappardelle .
sage & chestnut cream
Third Course - Apple Fritters: spiced caramel . cinnamon ice cream
Francesca giving her "thumbs up" to Restaurant Week
Apple & Cheddar Salad: michigan apple . grassfield cheddar . arugula . red grape .
champagne vinaigrette ($8)
Buttermilk Fried Frog Legs: house made remoulade ($9)

CVI.CHE 105 - The Best South American Cuisine in Miami

Peruvian Minimalist in White - the interior of CVI.CHE 105 exudes the clean flavors in
every dish. 
When my friend and foodie confidant, Ryan Schmied, described this amazing "hole-in-the-wall" Peruvian restaurant in downtown Miami, he didn't have to dig too deep into the menu because he had me at ceviche. I am going to be bold in saying this but the Argentinean's and Brazillian's better watch out because Peruvian food is the real deal. And CVI.CHE 105 exemplifies what I believe is an extraordinary restaurant experience. I enjoy the best fine dining restaurant
experience like every one else, but nothing beats a meal so pure in it's delivery and so true to its culture that I can only wish that every ethnic restaurant could do the same. My dining experience at CVI.CHE 105 was so enjoyable, I probably would pass on the "best" restaurant in Miami on my next visit for a repeat experience at this eden of South American cooking.

Ryan and I were joined by my friends Gerhard and Marise, both connoisseurs of food and the good life. The dining consensus was overwhelmingly all thumbs up. Between the good conversation, the delightful atmosphere and the memorable dishes, this was one of the most enjoyable meals we have ever had in a very long time. What really made the meal so enjoyable too was Ryan's in-depth knowledge of Peruvian cuisine. Ryan is only 23, but dining with him is equivalent to dining with the chef of the restaurant. He knew every dish as if he grew up eating ceviche and tiraditos as a kid. Peru, according to Ryan has 200 varieties of potatoes and about 35 varieties of corn. From the toasted choclo's to start the meal to the humungous Huancaina corn, CVI.CHE 105 makes the most of what Peruvian food is all about without trying to be something else.

Chef Juan Chipoco leads the amazing culinary team. The service and host staff, especially our server, Pedro, are equally amazing and both proud and competent about their cuisine. Peru might be small compared to its bigger South American neighbors, but the flavors of her cuisine can stand toe-to-toe any day, not just with her neighbors, but the rest of the world. The JW Marriott Lima is looking like a future destination for the Aquino family.
Ceviche platter ranging from a mild to very spicy. An excellent starter for the table.
Mixed Chaufa Fried Rice - even the Asian's will have
difficulty improving on this incredible dish ($16.95)
Pisco Sour - the national drink of Peru
Cevichini 105 - Pisco with ginger, cilantro, celery,
lime and sugar
Toasted Choclo on every table
A non-alcoholic refresher - Chicha Morada
Traditional Ceviche
Creamy Ceviche
Medium Spice Ceviche
Flaming Ceviche
My ceviche sampler
Pedro, our server, is an amazing Peruvian culinary ambassador
Anticuchos - tender pieces f calf heart, marinated in a secret mix, then carried into the
heat of steaming coals which provides personality to the dish ($8.95)
Choclito a la Huancaina (Huancaina Peruvian Corn) - gigantic Peruvian corn with white
cheese and Huancaina sauce ($6.95)
Gerhard shares a bite of the Tiradito Virgen (Virgin sliced
fish); immaculate tiradito made with with fresh corvine fish,
covered in white cream and Peruvian corn (($8.95)
Grilled Churrasco Steak
Staff meals line the counter across from the open kitchen
Cortadito - my favorite way to end a meal - 
Window dining

CVI.CHE 105
105 NE 3rd Avenue
Miami, FL 33132
305.577.3454

Sunday, November 7, 2010

JW Marriott Marquis Miami: A Star Studded Opening


The opening of the JW Marriott Marquis Miami was a star-studded event fitting the brands very first Marquis designation. Just like any media event, it gives the hotel an opportunity to showcase the amenities while allowing mere mortals like myself the opportunity to brush with celebrities. The buzz was electrifying in the lobby as each celebrity is ushered through the red carpet. Brooke Shields, A-Rod, Angie Harmon, Anna Kournikova, Venus Williams, Tim



Hardaway and Helio Castroneves to name a few.

Chef Daniel Boulud put out a nice spread at his lobby level db Bistro Moderne to start the festivities. Models in black dresses led the partygoers to the 19th floor afterwards for more hobnobbing with the celebrities. DJ Arie entertained the crowd of 500 in the basketball court where A-Rod won the celebrity shootout to benefit the boys & Girls Club of Miami. Champagne and Grey Goose martini's flowed while guests enjoyed the golf lessons, virtual bowling and cigars by the pool. 

My hats off to the team at the JW Marriott Marquis Miami opening. There's no doubt in my mind that the Marquis will be a standout in the Miami luxury hotel market.